![]() Clicking on this will reveal an array of Layer Blending Modes, which you can glide your mouse pointer through, and then select anything you fancy. Alongside the Opacity slider is a small box labelled as Normal. I have reduced the opacity of the top layer to 0.74. In the images below, you will see that I’ve added a preset called BuzSim II on top of another preset called Breaking Waves. You can then go on to add another preset on top of this one, if you so wish. Clicking on the Apply button on the preset, selects this preset. Lowering the opacity gradually reveals your original image underneath it. I usually lower the opacity of each one, using the Opacity slider, to about 0.75 (75%). Clicking on the “Add Look” button will reveal an array of presets, which you can try out in turn. In the first image, you will see on the right hand side, something similar to Photoshop’s Layers Palette. Next up are three screenshots of the TS2 interface. You will find that larger images are processed much more slowly in TS2. I’ve found the optimal image size for TS2 is about 3000px across (for images in Landscape format) … this reduced-sized image was 4.4 MB. So here is my original lakeside image after tweaking it both in C1FE and Photoshop Elements … Before using Topaz Studio 2Īs you can see, the image is rather bland and hardly worth keeping, so I decided to use Topaz Studio 2 to add some colour and drama to it. I find that the quality of the JPGs are so good that I don’t have to do much in the way of editing. I then use Capture One Fujifilm Express, which is free to use, to convert RAW images to new JPG ones. On my PC, I go through my JPG images first of all, to select which RAW ones to keep, as the JPGs are easier to see on my PC. The RAW images are about 56MB each, whereas the top quality JPGs are about 15MB each, 6000 px across in Landscape format. I usually set my camera to take both RAW and JPG images at the same time. I’m about to upload a lakeside photo onto Flickr, which I took with my Fujifilm X-T3 camera with the standard kit lens on it. I hope this helps clarify, Andy, but please let me know if you have any questions, or if I can help with anything else.I thought I would show you how wonderful Topaz Studio 2 is, and how easy it is to use. You can feel free to use the coupon code loyal15 and get an additional 15% off. I'm also happy to share with you a coupon of 15% off in case you decide to make a purchase. Based on the shooting you do, I do believe DeNoise AI will be more useful for you and your wife if you have to decide between the two programs, but you can also feel free to trial with Sharpen AI and check the results from each program. These minor editors don't use the AI processing models that the AI products have. It is important to note that noise reduction in Sharpen AI is not the same as DeNoise AI, and vice versa, and should be considered minor editors. I'd also note that Suppress Noise in Sharpen AI and Sharpen in DeNoise AI are made as options for users who need minor tweaking that doesn't necessarily require the robust noise reduction of DeNoise AI, and vice versa, but where minor adjustments in another program may prove useful without disrupting the user's workflow with two separate programs. The noise removal and sharpening tools that Studio 2 has are only minor editors that don't use the AI processing models the AI programs have. My question is this how does Studio 2 compare to Denoise as far as noise removal and sharpening? For wildlife, are we better off with Studio 2, or Denoise + Sharpen? As for your question, DeNoise AI and Sharpen AI are definitely more robust and effective for removing noise and sharpening, respectively, than Studio 2. I do not need the creative tools in Studio 2, but the AI Clear seems to work well. My main concern is noise reduction, secondary concern is sharpening. ![]() ![]() My wife and I are hobbyist wildlife photographers shooting a lot of birds, sometimes in low light with high ISOs. After installing the graphics card I asked the tech support guy what the difference is between Denoise & Sharpen VS Studio 2: I need help to determine which Topaz product I need. I had tried Topaz Studio 2 because I heard that it was more resource friendly than Denoise and Sharpen. ![]() I put in a GTX 1650 and it runs my trail Denoise and Sharpen just fine. A Topaz tech support guy recommended installing a graphics card and that did the trick. It would take up to 25 minutes to make one adjustment and save the photo. My six year old Dell was struggling so much Denoise it wasn't usable.
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